Mason Murphy Cleaning
Body- Spray a solution of 50/50 water and
alcohol on the body and wipe of with a clean rag or paper towel.
Barrel- Squeegie out any excess paint, then wash with water, and dry.
Bolt- Wipe off all paint, Take q-tips and clean out the inside of the bolt.
Breech- Wipe out with towel and 50/50 solution
Detent- Unscrew detent put in small bowl of 50/50 solution and press ball in
and out. Or just take a q-tip and push it in the ball and rub it around.
Bolt- Put Vaseline on bolt o-rings and anywhere it touches the body (if your
bolt is delrin you will need to learn how to oil them)
3 way- Put a drop of oil down the 3-way shaft and pull trigger 20-30 times
ASA- The thing that the inline reg is hooked to. Take off the inline and put 3-4 drops
of oil in it. Hook reg back up and fire 30-40 time with just air.
Unscrew cocking rod and put allen key in and turn clockwise to inreas counter
clockwise to decrease. ¼ turn = 15 fps change
Back Block- The next step is to set the back block distance. This step sets
the back block so that everything else can run smoothly. You don’t want the back block too close to the body; otherwise
it slams into it, damaging both, and creating a loud clanking noise. You also don’t want the back block too far away
from the body because then the ram takes the brunt of all the forces being moved around. The best way to set the back block
is to screw it into the pump arm, until it is flush against the body, and then unscrew it one turn. This setup creates the
best of both worlds. It doesn’t let the ram take the brunt of the force, but likewise doesn’t have the block unnecessarily
hit the body.
Cocking Rod- The length of the cocking rod controls how much bolt clears the breach
when the hammer lug catches on the sear. Of course, when the marker is aired up, you need the bolt to clear the feed tube.
The best way to set this process is with the marker degassed. You need to adjust the knob on the back of the cocking rod to
adjust how much bolt is visible in the feed tube. You want the tiniest sliver of bolt visible in the feed tube when the gun
is cocked, and degassed. To adjust this, turn the knob on the cocking rod clockwise to make more of the bolt visible in the
feed tube, and counter clockwise to make less of the bolt visible. The reason you want a small bit of bolt, is because if
you have too much bolt, the ram ends up doing more work than it needs to, and has to push against an already compressed main
spring. If you have none of the bolt showing in the feed tube, then the ram ends up pushing too far, and it could lead to
double feeding, and basically just more work than is needed.
Hammer Lug-First you need to set how early the marker fires in the pull sequence. On
all newer models, either with a round hole trigger plate, or hinge trigger, you generally want the marker to release the hammer
in the first ¼ of the pull. On the older slotted hole trigger plate, its recommended that the hammer be set to release half
way through the pull. To adjust the position of the hammer lug you need to remove the bolt, and insert a 1/8 allen key into
the whole in the sight rail. It may take some work to get the allen key to fit into the hammer lug. Don’t get discouraged
if it takes you some time to slide the hammer back and forth until you can get the allen key to engage. Once you get the allen
key in, you need to either turn it clockwise to make the lug longer, and make the release later in the pull, or turn it counter
clockwise to make the lug shorter, and make the release earlier in the pull.
Acutator Rod- This is probably the most important and most common part of timing. It
involves setting the length of the actuator rod to actuate the 3 way at the proper time. This is what controls the re-cocking
of the marker. You want the marker to cock long enough after firing to ensure that no air escapes up the feed tube, causing
blow back (which increases the chances of chopping). If the marker fires too late in the pull, it wont cock reliably, leading
to double feeding, which causes a mess as well. Generally speaking, you want the marker to cock in the last ¼ pull. A good
test for blowback, is to place a small square of tissue paper over the feed tube. If it blows in any direction, then there
is blow back present, and you need to continue adjusting the distance between the firing portion, and the 3 way actuation.
If your 3 way is actuating too early (which causes blowback) you need to lengthen the timing rod by turning by turning
the actuator collar counter clockwise after loosening the set screw closest to the trigger. And if the 3 way is actuating
too late in the pull, you need to shorten the actuator rod, by adjusting the actuator collar clockwise. Or for a more basic
timing u can plug in your air and unscrew the setscrew and move it around and shoot till it shoots good with no blowback.
Suction Timing- Now, many people are interested in suction timing in their marker. After a couple years of experimenting,
and observing, I have found that suction timing usually occurs when the firing, and 3 way actuation are almost right on top
of each other. The theory behind this is, that while the air is moving down the barrel from the shot, the breach is on its
way open. The air moving down the barrel creates a vacuum in the breach, which sucks air from the hopper into it. It is still
open for debate if this actually has any benefits, but it is still good for bragging rights.
Barrel Leaks Cock the paintgun before gassing up: Probably the most common cause of barrel leaks is nothing more than the
hammer resting against the valve and holding it open when the paintgun is first gassed up. This isn’t really a problem,
just the new Autococker-user’s misunderstanding. If your Autococker starts to vent air down the barrel when you first
gas it up, it’s probably because you haven’t cocked the hammer back first. Just make sure to pull back the cocking
rod or the back block until the hammer locks back before attaching or turning on your air source. Dry cup seal: If you notice
a slow leak down your barrel, you may just have a dry cup seal. Put a few drops of oil in your ASA before gassing the ’gun
up and cycle the oil through the paintgun. This will often help seal up very minor leaks. Tip: take your barrel off or turn
your bolt upside-down before doing this to avoid spraying the inside of your barrel with oil.
Blown/damaged cup-seal: If a little oil doesn’t clear up your leak, or you have a more vigorous leak, it may be that
the cup seal in your valve is damaged or blown out completely. If this is the case, you’ll need to buy a new cup seal
(remember to buy the right one if you have an aftermarket valve!) and replace it. Replacing the cup seal is rather involved
and requires a special tool to pull the valve. If you don’t know what you’re doing, you may want to send your
Autococker back to the shop (WGP or custom shop of your choice) to have the cup seal replaced
Blown/damaged valve-guide O-ring: If you pull your valve out and find that your cup seal is perfectly fine, check the O-ring
that sits around the front edge of the valve guide (the main body of the valve) and replace it if damaged. As this is not
a moving O-ring, it doesn’t commonly get damaged during normal use. Look to it as the problem if you have recently had
the valve replaced or repaired as it is commonly damaged when the valve is pulled out or installed.
Blown shaft O-ring on RAT valve or other custom valve: If you have a custom valve that has an extra O-ring on the shaft
of the cup-seal stem (the Shocktech RAT valve was the first valve to include this feature), check it for wear or damage as
well if you are having barrel leaks.
New cup-seal: If you have a new Autococker, or you’ve just had the valve or cup-seal replaced, you may find that
you have a slow leak down the barrel when you first gas the paintgun up. This problem is particularly prevalent with some
aftermarket valves with very hard cup-seal materials (the Tornado valve is notorious for this). The problem here is usually
that the new cup seal material has not yet broken in to perfectly seal against the front edge of the valve guide. This will
go away in time as the face of the cup-seal wears in. To seal things up and hasten the valve’s breaking in, turn up
your input pressure until the valve seals, then cycle the ’gun a few hundred times. You should then be able to turn
the pressure back down and keep a good seal.
Improperly-installed valve/valve-spring: If you’ve just had your valve replaced or repaired and you are now getting
a vigorous leak down the barrel, another possibility is simply human error. If the valve isn’t in straight, or the valve
spring is kinked or at a funny angle, the cup seal may not seat flush against the front of the valve guide. Pull the valve
and reinstall it taking care to ensure everything goes in straight.
Make sure ’gun cocks with each shot: Similar to #1 above, if your hammer doesn’t catch the sear with each shot,
it can end up staying forward holding the valve open and allowing air to vent down the barrel. If you find that your Autococker
occasionally skips a shot and vents down the barrel until you pull the trigger or pull the block back by hand, you’re
probably experiencing hammer slip-over. This is the case where the hammer slips over or doesn’t catch the sear, allowing
it to stay pressed forward against the valve. This is usually be caused by the Autococker being mistimed (for timing directions,
read my previous article from PGI June 1998, No. 111, or at my web page: http://www-personal.umich.edu/~rchopra. If you find
that your Autococker is properly timed but are still experiencing this problem, your sear and/or lug is worn so much that
there is no longer enough friction for them to catch when the hammer is cocked.
Replace your lug first — it’s cheaper and more commonly is the culprit. If changing the lug doesn’t correct
the problem, you’ll need to get a new sear.
Operating pressure too low: If you find that your Autococker initially seals up properly, but the first time you pull the
trigger it fires and vents vigorously down the barrel without cocking, your input pressure may be set too low. With a low
input pressure, the free rush of air through the valve may be such that not enough is left to operate your autococking system.
Try turning up your input pressure (using the regulator in your vertical ASA) to assist in closing the valve and allowing
more pressure to run the ram. If this problem presents only after a few shots during rapid fire, you may have a problem with
your air system. Check the regulator in your vertical ASA or your nitrogen system for bad O-rings or seals that may not be
allowing it to recharge quickly.
Paintballgun is not cocking: If you’re having problems like above, but increasing the input pressure has not lternately,
you may have a flaw in your autococking system (i.e. blown regulator, blown ram, etc.) or a serious problem with your timing
such that the ram is not being activated to cock the hammer back. Check your front-end components and timing for problems.
3-Way Valve Leaks
Frozen O-rings: If you shoot CO2, your Autococker has been working just fine, and you’ve just developed a new leak
from the front, back, or both ends of your 3-way, there’s a very good chance you’ve gotten some liquid CO2 into
the valve and frozen up the O-rings. This is a temporary state and it should seal back up once the liquid is cleared and the
O-rings warm back up. To prevent this from happening in the future, you should take measures to prevent CO2 from entering
your Autococker using such things as remote systems, expansion chambers, pressure regulators, and anti-siphon tanks. Keep
in mind that when liquid CO2 comes in contact with the O-rings in most 3-way valves, the seals swell and stiffen the valve’s
action as well as making it much more prone to failure in the future.
Dry O-rings: Another possibility when you get a new leak, particularly if it starts slowly and gradually gets worse, is
that the valve’s O-rings are dry. You can run a little oil through the paintgun via the ASA or you can just put a drop
or two in the front of the valve with the ’gun degassed and pull the trigger a few times to work the oil through.
Pressure too low: With the preponderance of super-smooth aftermarket 3-way valves on the market, this has become a very
common problem. Aftermarket valves often have looser fitting O-rings to allow for smoother action. As a result, they don’t
make very tight contact with the inner walls of the valve. The ironic result is that you actually need a higher pressure in
the valve to allow the O-rings to seal properly. In some cases, this pressure can be so high, that it’s actually quite
a bit higher than required to run the ram and cock the paintgun. If your Autococker is properly timed and shooting well apart
from a persistent leak from the 3-way regardless of trigger position, try turning up your front-end regulator (Sledgehammer,
Rock, Jackhammer, etc.). That will often seat the O-rings more tightly and stop the leak.
Timing rod too short: Another very common cause of 3-way front-end leaks results from everyone trying to time their own
triggers as short as humanly possible. Commonly people will set their timing rods very short to get the 3-way to switch early
in the trigger pull. The result is that they don’t allow the 3-way piston to move far enough forward to seal reliably
and a slow, intermittent leak from the front of the valve. This usually presents as a slow leak from the front of the 3-way
that goes away when the trigger is pulled and held back (assuming you don’t have other timing problems or bad O-rings
in the valve). Some will also find that they can make the leak go away by tapping the side of the timing rod (this can nudge
the O-ring in just tight enough to create a good seal). The fix is very simple. Lengthen the timing rod until the piston is
far enough forward to seal reliably when the trigger is all the way forward. Note: this problem can be more prevalent in valves
that have been over polished and in some poorly-designed aftermarket 3-ways. Palmer’s QuickSwitch is one valve that
is notably and impressively resistant to this problem.
Bent or kinked timing rod: Not only does the timing rod have to be long enough to allow the 3-way to seal forward, it also
must be perfectly straight and in-line with the 3-way to work properly. If the timing rod is bent off to the side it will
bend the 3-way piston to the side as well. This increases friction (making for a stiffer trigger pull and causing the 3-way
to stick) and pulls one side of the piston O-rings away from the valve inner wall, allowing it to leak. This most commonly
occurrs with Autocockers that have aftermarket timing rods with aluminum couplers. The aluminum coupler does not fit the stainless
steel rod very well, so when you tighten the set screw down after adjusting the rod length the coupler kinks off to the side.
If the Autococker is gassed up while you’re doing this, you can actually hear the leak start and stop as you tighten
and loosen the set screw. There are a couple fixes for this. First, you can just lengthen the timing rod further to force
the O-ring further forward to seal more tightly. If you’re trying to get the shortest possible trigger pull, you’ll
probably want to get a tight-fitting, all stainless steel threaded timing rod that does not kink when tightened in place.
Both LAPCO and P&P make excellent aftermarket stainless timing rods. The new stock threaded rods on Autocockers and STO’s
are superb as well.
Timing rod bumping trigger-frame: The timing rod can also be forced to the side by bumping against the trigger frame. Some
aftermarket timing rods are not bent sufficiently sharply where they turn to go through the hole in the frame and trigger.
When the trigger is all the way forward, the bend of the rod may press against the front edge of the hole in the trigger frame
and be pushed out to the side, causing the same kind of leak as found with a kinked timing rod. There are quite a few ways
to correct this problem. Obviously, you can buy a timing rod that is bent sharply enough not to bump the trigger frame in
that way. You can grind away either the rod or the trigger-frame where the parts are bumping together. Finally, if a short
trigger pull is not a priority, you can just lengthen the timing rod to the point where the 3-way bottoms-out against its
forward-most position before the rod moves far enough forward to bump the frame. This final option is only possible in 3-ways
that have a forward stop (the stock valve, Palmer’s QuickSwitch, KAPP’s 3-way).
Too soft trigger-return spring/trigger-binding: As with the too-short timing-rod, any time the piston doesn’t go
far enough forward to seal in the front of the valve, the 3-way will leak from it’s front end. If your trigger-return
spring isn’t strong enough or something else is causing your trigger to stick back, you will have 3-way leaks that go
away when you pull and hold the trigger back, and when you actively push the trigger all the way forward. To fix these leaks,
install a stiffer trigger-return spring or correct the cause of the binding.
Blown/damaged piston O-rings: The thing that everyone thinks of first is actually probably the least common cause of 3-way
leaks. 3-way piston O-rings actually only very rarely go bad. If you have a bothersome 3-way leak that just doesn’t
go away no matter what you do, try replacing the piston O-rings to see if that clears up your leak.
Blown/damaged ram O-ring: Now we’re getting to the real zebra. You can have a persistent 3-way leak as the result
of a blown piston O-ring in your ram. What you’ll find is that your 3-way will leak from the back at rest, but switches
to a front-leak when the trigger is pulled and held back. If you have that funky leak pattern and you’ve tried everything
else to eliminate the leak to no avail, try swapping rams to see if that clears it up. Other Leaks
Low Pressure hose leaks: If you are having a slow leak around the small, low pressure hoses at the front of your Autococker,
they’re probably just too stretched out to seal properly. You can usually correct this by pulling the hose off of the
barb, trimming the loose end with a knife or scissors, and shoving the clean end back onto the hose barb. You can sometimes
run into a situation where the hose you’re using it actually too big for the hose barb on one of your front-end pneumatic
components. If this is the case, you can get new, smaller ID hoses that fit more tightly, or your can get a set of hose clamps.
Hose clamps are the small metal (brass and aluminum are most common) rings that fit over the hose and are shoved down over
the barb after the hose is in place. These result in a tighter fit and a better seal.
Blown low pressure hose: If one of your low pressures hose pops off just once, it’s probably not a big deal. Just
trim the end of the hose as described above and put it back in place. If you find that your low pressure hoses pop off very
frequently, it may be because you have loose hoses that require hose clamps to stay in place (see above), or it may be that
you have your pressure set too high. Try resetting your front-end regulator (Sledgehammer, Rock, Jackhammer, etc.) pressure
to the lowest point that still allows your Autococker to cycle properly. If you find that your hoses blow off frequently regardless
of where you set your pressure, you may have a blown regulator that is allowing full pressure to pass through. Replace or
service your front-end reg to correct this problem. Finally, if you shoot CO2, your hoses can blow off if any liquid makes
it past your front-end regulator. I strongly recommend the use of hose-clamps if you shoot CO2.
Front-block screw leak: Though this is very uncommon, you can have slow leaks around the edge of the front-block screw
or the front block where it meets the ’gun body. You’ll really only run into this if someone has recently worked
on your front block, taking it off or replacing it. There are O-rings on the front and back face of the front block that seal
around the front-block screw. If one of these O-rings is damaged, you can get leaks around the edge of this screw or at the
junction of the front-block and body. Unscrew the front-block and replace the damaged O-ring to correct the leak.
Leak at the ASA: These leaks can occur at any ASA — vertical, bottom-line, or remote system. Most commonly they’re
the result of a bad O-ring on the fitting or tank you have screwed into the ASA. Try replacing that O-ring first. Some aftermarket
fittings actually don’t screw into the ASA far enough to seal up properly. If this is the case, you’ll either
need a new ASA or a new fitting that screws in far enough for the O-ring to seal. Keep in mind that some tanks have pin valves
that can start to open before the O-ring seals completely. Even if air starts to vent, screw the tank in the rest of the way
quickly to see if it eventually seals up.
Too Low/Too High
Bolt upside-down: If your ‘gun seems to be working properly but isn’t firing paintballs, check your bolt. One
of the most common, simple problems is people installing the bolt upside-down.
Out of air: Sometimes people don’t check their HPA or CO2 tank. If you can’t get enough velocity, check to
make sure your tank isn’t empty.
Improper velocity adjuster setting: First things first. If your velocity is too low or too high, give the velocity adjuster
a twist. Take out the cocking rod under the bolt at the back of the ‘gun. Insert a 3/16" allen wrench through the lower
hole in the back-block and turn the screw in front of it. Clockwise increases tension on the main spring and increases velocity.
Counterclockwise does the opposite.
Mainspring too stiff/soft: If your velocity adjuster doesn’t allow you to get the velocity high enough or low enough,
you may have a mainspring that is too soft or too stiff. This is most likely if you have a custom valve, or aftermarket hammer
kit. Take out your bolt, cocking rod, back-block, and velocity adjuster to get to the mainspring. Replace the spring with
a stiffer one to get higher velocity or a softer one to get a lower velocity. Many companies sell custom spring kits for the
Autococker so they shouldn’t be too hard to find.
Incorrect input pressure: Your velocity problem can also be due to your input pressure. All Autocockers come with the WGP
inline regulator, that should be properly set at the factory to allow you to get good velocity by just setting the velocity
screw at the back of the ‘gun. If you’ve had custom work done to the ‘gun that involves the regulator, hammer,
spring, valve, or timing, this can change. Unfortunately, there is no simple equation for setting your input pressure as valves
have a bell-shaped velocity profile where velocity will increase with increasing pressure, but only up to a point. After that
point, further pressure increases actually close the valve faster causing a decrease in velocity. My personal favorite way
to set the input pressure for most ‘guns (the Tornado valve is a major exception) is to set the velocity adjuster to
the mid point, then adjust your pressure regulator to the point where you get the highest velocity. In other words, start
with a low pressure and adjust it up until your velocity maxes out and starts to drop again. At this point you are getting
the highest possible flow through your valve. Now use your velocity adjuster to turn your velocity back to field-legal limits.
Valve spring too stiff: Another possibility when you’re having a hard time getting sufficient velocity is that your
valve spring is too stiff. Installing a softer spring allows the valve to stay open longer and allows lower pressure operation
and higher velocities. Conversely, if your efficiency is terrible your valve may be staying open way too long and might be
improved with a slightly stiffer valve spring. Changing this spring requires taking the valve out, and thus requires a special
tool, a lot of work, and retiming the ‘gun. I only recommend this for those experienced with the inner workings of the
Improperly installed valve: If you’ve just had a new valve installed or had to replace your cup seal, new velocity
problems can be caused by an incorrectly installed valve. The most obvious error is if the valve is installed upside-down.
Another possibility is if the valve is a bit out of alignment, not allowing completely free flow. Try reinstalling the valve
to see if that helps. Erratic (Inconsistent)
Loose valve jam nut: This is one of the rarest causes of velocity problems, but it’s probably the most serious so
I mention it first. If you are experiencing wide velocity fluctuations (+/- 30 fps or more) no matter what you do, find a
quiet place and tip your ‘gun back and forth and listed for a clicking sound like something falling back and forth between
the hammer and valve. If you do, you may have a loose jam nut. The valve is held in by two screws; one from below, and the
jam nut which screws in behind it. If the jam nut comes loose, it can bang around in the space between the valve and hammer,
destroying the threads it is supposed to be screwed into. If these threads are damaged, it can mean a very expensive fix or
complete loss of your Autococker body.
Poor paint quality: One of the most common causes of poor velocity consistency is not the paintgun at all, but rather the
consistency of your paint. If you have a case of paint where the paintballs are not all the same size, they aren’t all
going to fit the barrel the same, so each shot will get a different amount of push. This also happens if your paint is out-of-round
— velocity will depend on the paintball’s orientation when it drops into the barrel. You can check this by seeing
how several different paintballs from your case fit your barrel.
Poor paint-barrel match (roll-out): If your barrel is much bigger than the paint you are shooting, the paint can roll part-way
down the barrel before you pull the trigger. Velocity will depend on how far the ball has rolled out before you pull the trigger.
The best way to fix this is to use a tighter barrel or larger paint so the paint can’t roll out. If you’re stuck
for the game or the day, just make sure to keep your paintgun level or tilted up when chronoing.
Leaking regulator seat: If your paintgun shoots low on the first shot, but climbs when your rapid fire, or if you have
an older Autococker (1996 or earlier) and you find the velocity gets higher the longer you wait between shots, you may have
a bad seat in one of the regulators handling input pressure to the ‘gun. What happens is that the regulator quickly
recharges to the set output pressure, but slowly leaks full tank pressure through to the gun. In new guns, this high pressure
in the large valve chamber closes the valve too quickly, resulting in low velocities. When you rapid fire, the regulator's
slow leak doesn't allow it to climb much past set pressure between shots. In older guns with their small valve chambers, the
higher pressures associated with longer waits between shots result in higher velocities. To check this, gauge your in-line
regulators and air system to see if they’re holding a consistent pressure. If the pressure creeps up past the set-point,
replace the regulator seat.
Dirty regulator: If you find your velocity dropping off when you rapid fire (shoot-down), your problem may be a dirty input
pressure regulator. A dirty reg seat or piston can cause the reg to refill very slowly. Gauge your regulators to make sure
they’re recharging quickly and have them serviced if they aren’t.
Restricted flow: Another common cause of shoot-down is if there is a restriction in your gas path to the ‘gun. Check
your hoses and connections to make sure there aren’t any kinks or crimped ends on your Micro-line. Replace any filters
in your gas path as those can get clogged over time. Check your on-off valves to make sure they’re clear of debris and
have intact O-rings. Finally, some remote systems with on-off knobs can actually be screwed down so far that they occlude
the gas flow out of your CO2 tank. Make sure not to turn them in too far.
Improper timing - too much overlap: If your Autococker is timed with the cocking point in the trigger pull right on top
of or in front of the point where it fires you can get some velocity inconsistency (as well as blow-back) if you pull the
trigger slowly. See my previous article on timing the Autococker to correct this.
Sear won’t catch: This is the problem you have when the lug in the hammer slips over the sear rather than catching
it when you release the trigger. This can result in a number of symptoms. The ‘gun could cycle but not fire a paintball.
The ‘gun could be cycling but only fire sporadically. It could be firing (at a very low velocity) when the trigger is
released rather than when it’s pulled. You could experience the "double shot" syndrome where it fires once on the trigger
pull and once on the release, followed by a trigger pull where the ‘gun doesn’t fire at all. In all cases, you’ll
notice that the cocking rod at the back of the ‘gun will often not stay cocked back when the trigger is released. There
are several occurrences that can lead to this problem.
Lug set too short: This is a plain and simple timing problem. If your lug is set very short to allow the Autococker to
fire very early in the trigger pull, there is not a lot of lug metal catching the sear. If there is only a tiny amount of
lug catching the sear, it’s very easy for the lug to slip over. Screw the lug down further to push the fire point of
your trigger pull back and give the sear more lug to catch when you release the trigger. Note, this changes the timing, so
you may need to adjust your timing rod to get the cocking point of the trigger pull back into the correct relationship with
the fire point. Read my timing article for more information on this.
Sear/lug worn out: With some custom triggers that are set for a very soft release, the friction between the sear and lug
is crucial for them to catch, sometimes even more so than the overlap between the lug and sear. If your ‘gun is properly
timed and the springs don’t seem to be the problem, check your lug and sear to see if the contact surfaces have been
polished out to a mirror-like surface. If so, install a new sear or lug as needed.
Sear return spring too soft: If the spring in your grip that pushes the sear up is too soft, it can allow the sear to be
bumped down too easily by the lug. Either stretch the existing spring or install a stiffer spring to correct the problem.
Main spring too stiff: The mainspring behind the hammer is what is pushing the hammer forward, and thus is the spring that
determines how hard the lug presses against the sear when they’re trying to catch. If you have a very heavy mainspring
it can push the lug right past the sear (overcoming the sear return spring. Install a softer mainspring to correct this problem.
Note: installing a softer mainspring may require you to change your input pressure to get sufficient velocity.
Block too short/cocking rod too long: Here’s a simple one. Check to make sure your back-block can physically move
far enough back to cock the ‘gun by pulling the back-block all the way back to see if the ‘gun will cock. If not,
either shorten the cocking rod or unscrew the back block a turn or two until the ‘gun can cock properly. See my timing
article for more information on how to do this properly.
Front regulator set too-low/starving out: You can also run into this problem if your Sledgehammer (Rock, Jackhammer, or
whatever you have) regulator isn’t providing enough pressure to cock the ‘gun. Try turning the pressure up.
Blown regulator: If your Sledgehammer (or other front-end reg) is damaged and not recharging fast enough, you can run into
this problem when rapid-firing. If this is the case, have the regulator repaired or replaced. Cocking before firing ("It won’t
shoot.") If your Autococker is not properly timed, you can have a situation where it is activated to cock the back-block before
the hammer is released. There are two ways to fix this, both covered in more detail in the Autococker timing article.
Lengthen timing rod: By lengthening the timing rod, you push the cocking point further back in the trigger pull.
Shorten lug: By screwing the lug further up into the hammer, you cause the Autococker to fire earlier in the trigger pull.
Ram doesn’t activate/back block stuck forward or back
Trigger-return spring too soft: Probably the most common cause when your back-block doesn’t come back forward all
the way is that your trigger is not returning all the way to switch the 4-way valve back. This usually happens because someone
has done a trigger job in which they’ve installed a softer trigger-return spring. If you install a spring that is too
soft, it won’t provide enough force to switch the 4-way when under pressure. Install a stiffer trigger-return spring
to correct this problem.
Trigger-stop set in too far: Autocockers with aftermarket .45 frames and trigger jobs can have an extra screw installed
called a trigger-stop. The trigger-stop is used to limit backward travel of the trigger when the pull is shortened. If the
trigger stop is turned in too far, it can stop the trigger’s backward movement before it has the chance to switch the
4-way and cock the ‘gun. If someone has just been working on your trigger and it suddenly doesn’t seem to be cocking
the back block, try backing your trigger-stop out a turn or two to see if that frees things up. Note: this is also a strong
possibility if the ‘gun sometimes seems to cock properly, but other times the back block hardly moves at all. This is
because the momentum of the trigger pulling the timing rod back can sometimes be enough to carry the rod back just far enough
to switch the 4-way on some shots. Make sure that the ‘gun fires and cocks properly when the trigger is pulled very
slowly to ensure your trigger stop is allowing enough travel.
Timing rod slipped loose/backed out: If your trigger seems to be moving freely, but your ram is stuck in one position,
check your timing rod. Old-style stock timing rods didn’t screw into the coupler, so if the retaining screw came loose
the rod would just slide back and forth in the coupler without activating the 4-way valve. Reset the timing rod position and
tighten the retaining screw back down. Also consider getting a new, threaded timing rod.
Timing rod way too long: If your timing rod is set far too long, the point where it would switch the 4-way valve may be
beyond the point to which the trigger plate is physically capable of moving back. This is similar to when the trigger stop
is set in too far. To fix it, shorten the timing rod. See my timing article for more information on how to properly set the
timing rod length.
Regulator set too low: If your Sledgehammer is set too low, it may not provide sufficient pressure to cock the ‘gun
so the back block only comes part-way back. Turn the pressure in the front-end reg up until the ‘gun cocks properly
with each pull of the trigger.
Blown regulator: Just like if your Sledge is set too low, if the front-end reg is blown out and not passing enough/any
air the ram won’t be able to cock the ‘gun. The difference is that turning the pressure up won’t correct
the problem. Have your reg serviced or replaced.
Swollen 4-way O-ring: This is mostly a problem for people who shoot CO2 through their Autocockers. If some liquid CO2 gets
into the ‘gun, it can cause the O-rings in your 4-way valve to swell. These swollen O-rings cause the 4-way’s
action to stiffen up significantly and can result in your trigger return spring no longer providing enough force to switch
the valve. Replace the tiny O-rings on the valve’s piston to correct this problem.
Damaged ram: If your ram has a blown out seal or is jammed up with crud it can have trouble cocking the ‘gun. With
the ‘gun degassed, manually pull the back-block back and forth to see how stiff the ram’s action is. If it is
very stiff and sticky, consider having your ram repaired or replaced.
Out of air: Your velocity should be more of a clue to this problem, but if you’re just dry-firing the ‘gun
and it stops cocking properly, check your air supply to make sure you haven’t emptied your tank. Feeding/Ball breaks
Short stroking: By far, the single biggest reason people have chopping problems with their Autocockers is because they
short-stroke the trigger. That is to say, they pull the trigger far enough to release the hammer, firing a paintball, but
don’t carry the trigger all the way back to complete the cycle. You usually get the 4-way to start to switch, but don’t
deliver enough air to the ram to fully complete the cycle, partially feeding a paintball and chopping it in half. The best
fix for this is to learn proper Autococker trigger hygiene. Pull the trigger ALL THE WAY back with each pull. Don’t
fan the trigger (no one should ever fan the trigger on any paintgun - it’s stupid and pointless). In time, your finger
will learn to shoot fast without short-stroking. Trust me, it’s worth it.
Barrel too tight: It’s always worthwhile to check how your paint fits in your barrel. If you find that your paint
is extremely tight in the barrel’s breech you’ll want to find a looser barrel or smaller paint. A too-tight barrel
is a sure recipe for broken balls in the barrel. Bolt not back far enough (timing): I touch on this in much more detail in
my timing article. If your bolt doesn’t come back far enough when the ‘gun cocks it can lead to chopped paintballs.
Make sure that the bolt completely clears the breech with each shot. If it doesn’t, lengthen your cocking rod to allow
more backward travel.
Trigger-stop set in too far: As mentioned above, if your trigger stop is set in too far, it can stop the trigger from completely
cycling the 4-way valve. If it’s only slightly too short, it can cause the ‘gun to appear to be working OK, but
not allowing the ram to open the breech completely or long enough. If your trigger stop is set to stop the trigger at the
exact point where the paintgun cocks, try backing it out a bit to see if that helps correct your problem.
Cocking point way too far back: If there’s a huge gap between the firing and cocking stages of your Autococker’s
timing, it makes it much easier to short-stroke the trigger. If you find yourself short-stroking a lot, you can probably reduce
it somewhat by closing the gap in your timing. Either lengthen the lug or shorten the timing rod to accomplish this.
Not using agitated hopper/dead batteries: An agitated hopper like the Viewloader Revolution is an absolute necessity with
high-end paintguns that don’t shake very much and which can shoot very fast. The Autococker is no exception. If you
have an agitated hopper but are suddenly getting a lot of breaks, make sure you have fresh batteries. Near dead batteries
will still run the hopper, but don’t break jams quickly enough during rapid fire.
Reg pressure set too low/dead ram (lagging): A lot of chopped balls can be the result of the ram lagging too far behind
the trigger pull, not allowing the breech to stay open long enough for a paintball to reliably feed. Too low Sledgehammer
pressure or a blown ram can be the cause of this. If your ram seems to be moving slowly, try turning up your reg pressure.
If that doesn’t correct the problem, check your trigger-stop position (see above). If that doesn’t do it, repair
or replace your ram.
Bolt Jam Bolt jam is when the bolt actually jams up in place and can’t be budged. This is different from when the
ram or trigger is the problem because the bolt can’t be moved at all. This usually occurs because a piece of shell from
a broken ball has gotten wedged between the edge of the bolt and the inside of the body.
Grab back block and pull: Most of the time the bolt can be dislodged by just grabbing the back block and hauling back with
all your might. The bolt will usually break loose and the ‘gun will function properly again. I highly recommend pulling
the bolt out immediately after getting it loose and running a pull-through squeegee through the ‘gun from back to front
to try to pull out any loose shell that might wedge the bolt in again. Remove barrel and try to knock it out from the front:
If, no matter how hard you pull, you can’t get the bolt loose by pulling the back-block, take off the barrel and try
to knock the bolt loose from the front with a stick or squeegee. If it pops out, squeegee the area to remove any shell fragments
before reinstalling the bolt.
Run hot water: If you just can’t get the bolt loose by pulling or pushing, you may have to wait until the end of
the day and run hot water into the front of the bolt. The hot water should soften the gelatin of the shell and allow the bolt
to come loose quickly.
Ultimate Tool Kit (You will only need some) Full standard set of allen keys including 7/64ths (for most everything - $12
- Sears) dental pics (removes orings and other hard to reach things - $10/set - Sears) small flat head and phillips screw
drivers (both are rarely used, but - $10 - Sears) qtips (cleaning - $3 - anywhere) valve tool (special PB tool - $15 - pro
shop or PB online - KAPP) springs (special cocker springs - $15 - Pro shop or online - Maddman) strap wrench (for loosening
round things without scratching - Sears - $10) vise grips (for gripping when you don't care about the finish - Sears - $8
) hobby vice (for holding things - Sears - $25) dremel tool (For custom fitting/cutting/grinding - Sears - $25) scalpel/exacto
knife (for cutting/trimming teflon and hose - hobby store - $5) scissors (cutting stuff - anywhere - $5) WGP oring Kit (cause
you never know which one will blow - WGP - $10) Mini torch & butane (Loctite - Home Depot - $8 ) gun oil (lube... - PB
Store/online - $6) teflon tape (seal Threads - home depot - $1) Loctite 242 (for Ram/pump arm connection - Home Depot (pro
lock) $5) 12 sided 1/4" socket, long is better (remove Inline ASA - Sears - $3) snap ring pliers (remove snap rings, usually
on regs - Sears - $5) electrical tape (you never know - anywhere - $5) needle nose pliers (cause you need small pliers - Sears
- $7) adjustable wrench (taking off ram, LPR, etc. - Sears - $7) extra low pressure hose and top hats (spares are good - PB
Store - $5) a macro line kit (spares are good - PB Store - $15) Extra Barrel Condom (cause you'll drop one on the field eventually
- $5) Sand Paper (sand your hopper, then just in case - home Depot - $5) Squeegee (cause you need one - $5) jar opener (like
a mouse pad but smaller and thinner) (found at kitchen stores) Big Strong Magnet (never lose screws) Find one